☆☆☆☆☆ FOOD AT THE NEWT IN SOMERSET
“Found! 5-star fodder for green-fingered and foodie friends alike...”
Overlooking the grounds of an old country estate turned 5-star hotel, the Garden Café sits amongst woodland, gardens and the limestone-clad Hadspen House.
So far, so perfectly Somerset, right? But this is no ordinary café.
The Garden Café is just one piece in a six-year-long renovation of the 300-acre estate by multi-billionaire husband-and-wife duo Koos Bekker and Karen Roos – owners of the world famous Babylonstoren hotel in South Africa. And when I say no expense has been spared – no expense has been spared…
THE VIBE
Nestled atop a bank of rosemary and lavender sits the Garden Café, the perfect vantage point to oversee the 30-acres of kitchen gardens and hundreds of acres of orchards, from which the veggie-led menu is sourced.
The restaurant is warm, yet ‘cool’ – the clientele a mix of families, freelancers, friendly couplings, celebrations and solo diners – while the décor feels like it was designed by a pro’ (Karen Roos is former Editor-in-Chief of South Africa’s Elle Decoration, so that’ll be why). And all with the attention to detail you’d expect from a 5-star setting, but without the fuss or frills.
Theirs is the sort of laid back luxury that somehow manages to make guests feel special – but not self-conscious – designed to satisfy urbanites and locals alike.
THE FOOD
Quintessential farm to fork fodder (or garden to gob, if you’re feeling more literal) all produce is sourced locally and as such is highly seasonal.
The OH and I knew we were onto a good thing when the bread bag arrived, an Essent-ial sack overflowing with house-baked apple-fermented sourdough and rye snaps.
And oh, the buffalo milk butter! Created at the in-house creamery and dusted with beetroot salt and – their top tip – lavender buds sprinkled over the top. Definitely one idea I’ll be pinching for the next dinner party (…once I’ve actually located a predilection for dinner parties that is)
We opted for Two Vegetable Courses (£23 each) – I had the Cherry tomato, Padron pepper, buffalo yoghurt, coriander and chilli salt to start, followed by whole baked Brittany onion, peas & beans, rainbow chard, labneh, pistachios, lemon & tarragon.
My husband – aka Captain Carnivore – had Summer beans, taramasalata, sourdough, preserved lemon & basil, followed by Charred Tromboncino squash, buffalo mozzarella, fermented chilli, nasturtium and tomato dressing – with a £9 supplement of meat (Chargrilled lamb leg, mustard & herb dressing).
With Newt-brewed apple juices, artisan ales and even a wine list that boasts bottles from their South African sister estate – the drinks menu feels similarly exclusive. We washed our meal down with a deliciously crisp No. 1 Kingston Black 7.4% (£5) before going for a (wobbly) wander through the gardens.
Oh – and when it comes to ‘C’ who shall not be named (okay, fine, Covid-19) – I was blown away by the generosity of thought that’s also gone into making guests feel safe, but nonetheless swanky.
From single-use menus to tactical tray service for cutlery and glassware, no metaphorical table has been left unturned.
It was this attention to detail that allowed us to truly relax and switch off, safe in the knowledge that we were being looked after in every sense, and by a team of staff who are warm, attentive (and alert) in equal measure.
THE EXTRA MILE
Prefer your garden lunch with even more garden?
Order a perfectly packaged picnic (prices range from £2.50-£16) before you arrive, and the team will set it up for you – leaving you free to snaffle up homemade pies, salads, cheeses, strawberries, cream and lashings of apple juice then stop, sit back and smell the (Generous Gardener) roses.
There’s even an on-site Cyder Bar and Gelateria (just no one tell my kids) plus The Farm Shop – should you so wish to recreate the Newt effect at home.
THE VERDICT
Perfect for: Swanky Sunday lunchers, boozy brunchers, vegan-veggies, garden fanatics, foodies, rekindling couples, teetotallers, schmoozers, Great British staycationers, weekend breakers, mini-mooners – and families with kids.
Not for: Evening diners – the garden and it’s eateries are only open during the day. Opening hours: October to March 10am – 4.30pm; April to September 10am – 6pm.
The damage: Buy Advance Tickets & Garden Membership (Adult – £17.50; Children – 5-15 £7; Under 5s – Free) Once there you can become a member – paying once to visit as many times as you like over the next 12 months. Simply keep your receipt and download the Candide garden app.
The Newt in Somerset, Hadspen, Bruton, Castle Cary BA7 7NG.